the center of the subcontinent - the confluence of the Indravati River and the Godavari River at Somnur, near Sirroncha, Gadchiroli district, Maharashtra

There are indeed some places that are close by to most travelers and explorers, and yet unvisited, or unexplored or not thought of. The most remarkable of such locations is the confluence of the Indravati River and the mighty Godavari River. This is at a very remote and difficult to reach location called Somnur, near the southernmost tip of Gadchiroli district at Sirroncha. One can drive south east from Sirroncha towards Somnur and then walk it up to the most magical and most remarkable locations in India. 

It also depends on when you are visiting, ie what time of the year. I am told that each month is different, and very starkly different. Winter is most beautiful, and the monsoon is most energetic. Summers are horrendous and if you want to walk on the sands of the Godavari River, you must have lost it in the head, if you do so in April or May. But, most autumn, spring and winter months are beautiful and one must visit this location, for sure, in ones' lifetime. 

Sighting the confluence of the Indravati and the Godavari, and taking in the entire span in a panoramic view is equal to that of sighting a tiger or elephant in wilderness. Just the view, from north to east, to south to west, standing in one spot, is like looking at an arc of nearly 80 kilometres of thick forests, wild river beds, scrub forests, crop lands, and hills and mesa-like plateaus. And through this entire panorama, there is no village, no town, no road and no bridge. As yet. And when you realise that such locations do exist, you are overcome by the zen like wave of happiness, that brought me to my knees right there. I just sat down and allowed myself to drink in the entire moment. 

the wainganga - the river that flows north at Markanda, Gadchiroli District, Maharashtra

The Wainganga or Penganga River is famous for its locations being mentioned in Rudyard Kipling's "Jungle Books" as the domain of Mowgli, Baloo, Sher Khan, Bagheera and other animals. One mention is of Akela, the pack leader of the wolves, and his entire pack of more than a hundred wolves, running alongside the Wainganga River. There is another mention of a pack of jungle dogs chasing down a sambhur male stag, if I remember rightly.

This photograph of the Wainganga is at a very unique location. The south flowing river that starts somewhere in Seoni in Madhya Pradesh and races to join the Godavari River, is at this location - flowing north alongside the holy and sacred Markendeshwar or Markanda temple at Chamorshi Village in Gadchiroli District of Maharashtra.

For one stretch alongside the Gadchiroli District, the Wainganga River spreads out wide, and turns north and later, again turns to flow south. Alongside the Markanda Temple, one cannot imagine that there would be another parallel flow of this river after it turns southwards. At the temple banks, the river is peaceful, spread wide, and flowing steadily. One can see the opposite banks at quite some distance, and if one can harken back to Kipling's Jungle Books, one can almost see Akela and his pack racing alongside the river.

The temple is a splendid location and worth visiting. There are many small temples within the perimeter, almost 16 to my count. Some of them are in good standing, and one can see devotees visit them and offer prayers. Several devotees and pilgrims walk down the steps from the temple to the river banks and offer their salutations, take a dip and present their prayers. Its absolutely beautiful at dusk, as I could witness in one visit.

My zen moment at this temple and the river was to look upon the vast panorama, and sit amazed at the splendid country. The river is very different from most other rivers that one can visit in the Subcontinent. The crowds, the temples, the polluted cities and boats and shops and vendors are not there. Its absolutely and totally an unhibited river stretch of the Wainganga at Markanda.